//Norsk versjon lenger ned//
For some unknown reason I have been wanting to try surfing for as long as I can remember, and on my bucket list it says: “Take surf lessons”. This story is from 2016, and we had been to Australia the very same year. But time and place never fit our schedule, and I definitely didn’t want to surf with crocs in Darwin. When we had decided on Costa Rica as our next travel destination, I dreamt of taking private surf lessons, but once again it didn’t happen.
We did, however, manage to rent a surfboard!
In this post I want to share my first surf experience with you, honest and uncensored!
Neither of us had tried surfing so we asked in the ‘hostel’ we stayed at what they recommended. They gave us this huge, gigantic enormous board I’ve ever seen. But I guess they knew best. So there we were, walking towards the beach, with this monster of a surf board. Too big to carry alone so we both had to step in and carry it the couple of hundreds meters down to the ocean. It was high tide, lots of riptides and some waves were huge – and there we were standing, without ANY experience, what so ever, with this enormous surfboard!
I looked around, we were alone at last and I dragged the surfboard behind me while I fought my way through the waves, one after the other. I stopped when the water reached right over my belly (someone told us to stay in the white water as a newbie), and I did feel a bit like a wimp, standing alone with my enormous board in war with the rips. I was standing there measuring the waves (as the pro surfer I am). There was nothing else to do than to throw myself into it! I laid my body on the board and tried the next wave, again and again, and that wasn’t a problem at all. My problem was that I had no idea on how I should go from there, how to rise and get myself standing. I tried to put my knee up to just feel my balance and it wasn’t bad, not bad at all. But I had to throw my body off the board before it reached the beach (I’m so afraid to break things, especially things that aren’t mine, and that thought was haunting me down while I tried focusing on my surf career).
After minutes struggling and fighting with the board we were no longer alone. People started to arrive the beach ready for ‘surf lessons for kids’. I had to throw in the towel and accept defeat, and get my ass out of there!
During the few minutes I was trying out surfing (if we can call it that) I learned a couple of things:
- 1The strap was attached to the wrong foot, and I noticed that quite quickly as it was always in my way when “jumping” up on the board (still laying). Or maybe there is not a difference between right and wrong foot? What do I know, right?
- I didn’t wear suitable swimwear! Yes, I was wearing a bikini, but it would have been so much better to actually wear something that stayed in place (or more correctly; held everything where it should be). Just think of how disappointing it would be if I was able to stand up, for just a short second, and if that moment was eternalised; me with a big grin and a nip slip – That would have been devastating, because I could never bragged about that moment showing evidence. Pictures like that get censored in social medias! And the plumber crack is not that charming either.
- Take at least one surf lesson, minimum!
This was first published in our travel blog.
Surf ’n Smurf – Min første surfeerfaring
Av en eller annen grunn har jeg alltid hatt lyst til å lære meg å surfe, og ‘å ta surfetimer’ står på min bucketliste.
Jeg tittet rundt meg og sørget for at vi var alene før jeg dro brettet etter meg, i kamp med bølgene på vei ut. De jobbet alle med å få meg over ende, men jeg gir ikke opp så lett, nei! Jeg kom meg ut hvor vannet nådde meg til midjen, for lenger ut turte jeg rett og slett ikke å gå. Jeg fikk et overblikk og analyserte de innkommende bølgene (som en proff, selvfølgelig). Det var ikke noe annet å gjøre enn å kaste seg ut i det, eller rettere sagt: opp på brettet. Jeg «surfet» på bølgene, men jeg klarte liksom ikke helt å komme til neste steget: å faktisk reise seg opp. Jeg prøvde et par ganger å få kneet på for å kjenne på balansen, og det gikk greit nok det, men før jeg kom meg lenger var det bare å kaste seg av brettet i frykt for at jeg skulle komme for nær stranden og få brettet ødelagt. Jeg lever i en liten frykt for å ødelegge ting, så det var hele tiden i tankene mine, mens jeg slåss med kjempebrettet og de hissige bølgene som omringet meg.
Etter noen minutter med et surfebrett lærte jeg at:
- Stroppen festet til beinet var festet til feil bein. Det var hele tiden i veien for meg når jeg skulle hoppe opp på brettet (fortsatt liggende). Og så tenker jeg litt over det og tenker: er det egentlig noe rett ben? Er det en smakssak? Eller kommer det an på hvilken side man «går opp» fra? Hva vet vel jeg!
- Jeg hadde ikke på meg riktig tøy. Jeg hadde på meg bikini, og det høres riktig ut det. MEN det hadde vært greit å ha noe som holdt seg på plass, eller som holdt ting på plass. Hvor kjipt hadde det ikke vært om jeg i et sekund skulle klare å stå oppreist på et brett, og det minuttet skulle bli foreviget med et stolt flåsete smil om munn og nippelen på avveie? Jeg kunne jo aldri i verden skrytt av det øyeblikket, sånt blir jo sensurert! Ikke så sjarmerende med den rørleggersprekken heller, for å si det sånn.
- Ta i det minste EN surfetime!